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| An untrained Dalmatian is an unhappy Dalmatian training  Right you have chosen your puppy, paid for it and received the papers from the breeder, now for the training which is a must and can start from the moment you get your puppy, but do remember a puppy is like a small child in that they will have a short attention span, tire easily, and get stroppy if tired.
Training needs to be in short bursts, it is not good trying something for 10 minutes as your pup would have got bored after 2 minutes and would have switched off. Dalmatians are very smart despite what people who have never had one will tell you. Dalmatians love flyball and agility and are very good and both with the right handler and don't let anyone tell you otherwise. Keep all training fun, don't be sharp with your pup as all they want to do is please you and to be loved. Be firm but gentle. Remember pups need plenty of sleep and not that much exercise as their bones need to grow and develop.    So you think baby gates and crates are a bad thing? Phinias aged six months & the contents of a single cushion, yep a single cushion!
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|  Loose lead training
Dalmatians need at least two good walks a day, each at least 30 minutes so lead training is very important, especially if you are not lucky enough to live close to a beach or fields for "free runs". We all love the idea of our Dals walking on a loose lead but they pull, pull and pull some more. We have tried Halties, Gentle leaders, half chokes, harnesses etc and either end up with very short, bad tempered walks as your Dal still pulls or walking with your Dal running loose, which is OK in the country but not in towns, and especially not if you live near a school and walk during the “school run” as you can guarantee the “posh woman” in the huge BMW or Audi will give you mouthfuls of abuse because your Dal is off their lead – even if your Dal is behaving.
Walking on a loose lead is not the same as your Dal walking to Heel (by your side), a loose lead is as it sound: the lead is never tight and your Dal is not pulling, even if they are walking a step ahead of you: I personally believe that if your Dal is walking a little ahead but is on a loose lead they are not being “disrespectful” as a certain programme will have you believe, it is because they cannot get trod on by you and they are staying away from your feet. I was taught to “yank” the lead when Bailey pulled, and soon found this had the opposite effect in that she would pull even more; she pulled the ligaments in hubbies shoulder one day when she went to chase a bumble bee – opps. But be honest how often have you seen dogs pulling their owners along, or heard of dogs pulling? By yanking the lead you are teaching your Dal that they can pull and the Yank of the lead means pull harder! Bad for your shoulders and bad for your Dals neck and throat. The method I have found works the best is Lure and Reward, and all you nead is a standard collar or standard harness. Please do not use a choke collar as these are cruel, and do not use an extendable lead for training as your Dal can suddenly dash after something and snap the lead (have been there).
When you go to training classes you are taught to walk your dog on the left and I agree with this as it means when you walk your dog is on the inside of the pavement with you between them and the traffic – logical when someone explains it to you.
If when walking your dog pulls stop still or suddenly turn and walk in the opposite direction Do Not kick or clip your dog with your heel, they are pulling for a reason: They want to investigate something, there is a nice smell, and there is food ahead. If you yank the lead you are reinforcing that pulling is OK.
Dalmatians walk at quite a high speed so you need to walk faster than you would with a small fluffy dog but at a speed that is comfortable for you. Dalmatians love treats so you need to make sure that your Dal is motivated to walk on a loose lead, if they are not motivated by food take their favourite squeaky toy with you, use anything that you know will work: Cheese is brilliant as a reward but does tend to go grotty in your pocket. At training classes I was taught to hold the treat in the same hand as the lead, oh this confused me no end so feel free to have the treat in which ever hand you feel happier with, I personally have the lead in my left hand, as it should be, and the treat in my right hand.
Right you are ready to set off: ensure your Dal is stood beside you to start their walk, and ensure they are aware there is a treat available in your hand – something we did find that works better than food was a laser pointer for lectures as Bailey loves chasing the light – When you are ready give your Dal the walk command. If your Dal starts to pull stop, Do Not yank the lead just stop, bring your Dal back to your side and try again, be warned you could do this many times but your Dal will get the hang of it. When your Dal does what you want: walk without pulling, tell them they are a good girl / boy and give them a treat.
We have been known to walk around in circles for ages when Bailey has decided pulling was better than walking beside me. Remember only give the treat when your Dal walks on a loose lead, and praise your Dal when they do what you want. If your Dal pulls Do Not yank the lead, take a deep breath and bring them back to you and start again – this is where walking in circles is good as you can bring your Dal back to your starting point without yanking the lead and without shouting or screaming in frustration. You could use a clicker to mark the good points but that confused me even more: lead, treats and clicker all at once?, I managed two things at once the clicker as well was beyond me. As you Dal get used to walking on a loose lead extend the time between treats – you can use kibble – and reward your Dal with plenty of Good Boys / Good Girls when they walk well, and stop when they do not – when they are not doing what you want please do not give treats or praise as they will associate bad behaviour with treats.
When you get to the kerb use the “wait” command, and the “cross” command when it is safe to cross, again reward with treats if your Dal did what you want, if not no treat, go back to the kerb and try again.
Once your Dal is walking on a loose lead you can add the word “nice” to “walk” so your Dal knows that “walk nice” means just that and does not mean “pull as hard as you can and try and break my shoulder”, bless them.
Tips: The sooner you start lead training with a pup the easier it is as they have no bad habits. Before going out try this exercise in the house and garden where you will not feel such a fool walking around in circles. Plus there are less distractions for your darling Dal so they should get the hang of the exercise easier. Remember the treat can be kibble or a toy – oh and if using food go when your Dal is hungry as they will not be interested in treats if they have just eaten a full meal – logical that one.
Once your Dal is aware there are treats available when they do what you want training off the lead will be easy as your Dal will not wander far from a treat, but remember if using food as a training aid do not train after feeding your Dal a large meal. Recall Recall is easy if done when the pup is young and has not learnt bad habits such as “its’ fun to run away”. Initially practice recall in the house, but watch you do not over excite your pup as they will wee inappropriately on the floor. Have someone sit the other side of the room and call your pup, when they go to them get that person to give them a small treat, you then call them and give them a treat, the other person calls them again and another treat or a cuddle and a “good puppy”, carry on for about five minutes as your pup will soon tire. As they grow do this in the garden, then on a field, then the park and so on until you are confident that they will come on command at the thought of a treat or a cuddle and praise. This is also a great command for Free Walking as you can use the command “here” to get them by your side before crossing a road. When practicing by all means look an idiot if it gets their attention until they are used to your commands – use hand commands to reinforce your verbal commands for when you are in the middle of a field and it is blowing a gale and your voice cannot be heard as your pup will link the visual with the verbal. Recall with two people is also great exercise for older dogs as each person can stand several hundred yards apart and have the dog running backards and forwards between them (one of Bailey's favourite games)  Phinnie dead to the world - aged 8 weeks | | Toilet training Puppy pads are a great invention for crates and by back doors, dearer than old newspapers but easier to clean up as like a nappy they absorb, and you should only need them for the first four weeks or so while your pup is getting adjusted to their new home. If your pup sleeps in a crate place a puppy pad the opposite end from where they sleep and they will use the pad automatically when they wake up (you will read that you should not put a pad in a crate but I do using the logic "would you put a baby in a cot for several hours without a nappy?", no you would not. A puppy pad in a crate is the doggy version of a nappy as a small pup needs training to hold their bladder). Put a pad by the back door and if you notice the pup wanting to go for a wee pick them up quickly and put them on the pad, whey they have had a wee praise them, they will soon catch on that using the pad is a good thing, and praise them when they have used it. Naturally if you have a well protected garden put the pup out in the garden but alas this is not always the case, and if you value your plants not always practical. A strange fact is that if you got your pup from a breeder who kept the pups in a run in the garden toilet training will be harder than if you got your pup from a family home where the pups are in the house and allowed to run free in the garden; the reason is that mum will not allow mistakes in the house and will teach her offspring to use the garden, where as in a run there is no where for the pups to go so they go where they are standing, this is a habit you have to break. Puppies need to go for a wee after meals, when they wake for a nap and when they get excited – the latter may be a problem on and off until they are a good six months old as excitement takes over from training! If you are taking him in the garden each time do not play with him / her first as they will forget what they went to the garden for, keep play for indoors and toileting outside. If your pup has an accident do not shout and scream at them as they would not have remembered the accident, and all the shouting and screaming will do is make your pup scared of you. Remember to praise your pup when he / she does their business where you want them to, but do not go over board with the praise as you could distract them, resulting in them continuing where you did not want them to go; oh the joys of toilet training. When there are accidents do not use bleach or general floor cleaners as many contain natural ammonia which will stimulate your pup to soil again in the same area. The £1 shop, vet and pet shops sell specific products for cleaning up after accidents but you could also use biological soap or warm water with a little white vinegar: I can recommend the cleaners from the pound shop. If your Dal is no longer a pup and has started having accidents please book them in to see the vet as it could be the sign of an infection. Tip: Most puppies walk around in circles before doing their business; keep an eye out for this behaviour. Use a word appropriate to your family to tell your pup they need to go for a wee - careful about what word you use as you do not want a small child to repeat it as an inappropriate time, if you are worried that the word will be used at school use a word you would not mind being repeated by a darling five year old. Good luck Crate training 
Crates are a great thing for Dalmatians as it is their “safe place” or “den”; it allows them somewhere to go for peace and quiet, and allows you to have a life away from your pup to go shopping, coffee with friends etc. You could leave your pup in the kitchen when you are out with the doors closed but it is not the cheaper option as they will soon start destroying your expensive units when they are bored, and could choke to death or get electrocuted from chewing something they should not have. Studies show that crate trained pups are 75% less likely to destroy things. Buy the largest crate you can find, one end can be a sleeping and play end, the other can have a puppy pad, as they grow and are toilet trained the pad will be removed and they will have more room to play. Don’t worry about expensive cushions for the crate as old jumpers, clothing, blankets, coats etc are much better and can be thrown away when your pup forgets to use the pad or tries to destroy them. Bailey stopped using her crate when she was about 12 months and now roams the house when we are out, but we are lucky in that she has never destroyed anything other than teddies. When you first get the crate leave the door open with pups favourite toys in it so he / she can explore it and get used to the idea of a crate before you need to use it for bed time or going out. Crates should never be used as a punishment, the crate should always be your pups "safe place". When not in use keep the door open, when you want your pup to go in put treats and toys in the crate and close the door, then about two minutes before you go out open the crate door and your pup will dive in thinking they have "scored" those treats - obviously we have more brains.
If you are eating put something in their crate for them, they will then go in their crate and leave you to eat in peace. Very quickly they will learn to go to their crate at meal times. Depending on your type of car you can get crates for cars as well. Remember it is illeagle in the UK to allow a dog to roam in a car while you are driving as such you will either need a crate or a car harness, the latter has the problem that a bored pup will eat the harness when you are not looking, and you will not know until you get a huge soppy lick on the side of your face, when you thought pup could not get near you - opps. We have two pop-up crates from the internet, for about £15 each, for staying in hotels and for Open shows depending on the type of crate we need, these were bought to give Bailey some “time out” peace as shows can be stressful at times, and to allow us to go for a meal when staying away from home knowing she is safe. Once pup is crate trained you will be wondering how you ever managed without one. The below picture is of Bailey in her crate at just seven weeks old, cuddled up to a teddy and laying on an old jacket of mine, and an old towel - the teddy lasted another six months when she suddenly beat it up and ate it?. The other is Phinnie aged six weeks on day two of his crate training.
Manners Manners are very important, the basic being getting to the door before your Dal does, and getting out of the door with your Dal still on the inside! Simple, teach your Dal “Sit” and either “stay” or “wait”, your choice on this one. When you go to the door make your Dal “Sit” and “stay” or “wait” until you tell them they can move. Being intelligent dogs this is very easy to teach them as they know when they get the “go” or “come” command there is something in it for them, even if it is only a walk or the opportunity to jump up and kiss a visitor. Practice outside the house by having your pup sit near a lamp post and walk away repeating constantly “stay” or “wait”, when you are ready turn around and move your hand towards you and use the command “come”. The hand command is very important as a reinforcement that they can move and great if you are somewhere noisy as they have a visual command as well as verbal. If your pup moves while practicing go back to them and make them “sit” again and start again. Crossing roads is an extension of this with them sitting at the curb side until you tell them “cross”. We were taught at puppy class that “stay” meant you were ”sitting” and coming back to your pup “wait” meant you were going to get them to come to you, this I found confusing, and so did Bailey so we use “wait” and not “stay” but it is your choice. Please teach your Dal “off” for when you do not want them on the furniture, jumping up at people etc. You could use “down” but only if you are not using “down” for “lie down” as it gets very confusing for the poor things. Another confusing word is “leave” which we use but if you are doing agility it is to similar to “weave” so you may need another command. We do not do agility so use “leave” and “drop” when out walking as Dalmatians will scavenge anything they think will taste nice, especially stuck to the pavement chewing gum, old chip bags, curry cartons and coffee cups. I assure you it can be hard getting them to “drop” their found prize and have had my hand down Bailey’s mouth more than once to get something back that she does not want to give up! Bless her. Sorry there is little you can do about your Dals bad manners if they have a wind issue, other than trying them on a different food, and sorry Dals do, as some men, do not seem to consider wind as bad manners and will glare at you as if it was you! I know Bailey has made herself jump from her own sudden wind and seem to blame us for making her jump!  Food snatching When you get a new pup your older dog might start “snatching” food from you, or physically lunging at your new pup when there is food being served, this must be stopped immediately and the older dog told very firmly that this is not acceptable. If necessary separate your dog’s food and feed them in two different areas: When we first got Phinias we had to move Bailey’s food bowls to the hall as Phinias would steal Bailey’s food. Bailey did not mind this but adult food is not good for a pup as it lacks the extra minerals and vitamins they need. However give Bailey a treat while Phinias was near her and she would lunge at him to stop him getting her treat! This behaviour lasted one day as it was made clear that we would not accept this behaviour, and to prove that Phinias would not get her treats (carrot sticks) we gave her them in another room from Phinias or when he was asleep. We had to ensure she was still the alpha dog and was not being replaced by Phinias, and that Phinias was going to have to wait for her. By day two both could be given treats as part of their training, both sat side-by-side and the treat being given when they did what was asked of them: Sit, Stand, Paw etc.  Bailey dead to the world - aged 18 months | |
| No! and Off! need to be taught at the same time as toilet training- All training needs to be gentle but firm but remember that puppies do not have a concept of what is right or wrong and have no concept of time so if you do tell them off do so immediately as five minutes later they will have no idea why you are telling them off, and will look guilty just because of the tone of your voice. To prove this screw a piece of paper in to a ball and place it on the floor and then ask your puppy why they have left the paper on the floor and they will look guilty and sorry and no idea of why they are being told off. Training needs to be in short bursts, it is not good trying something for 10 minutes as your pup would have got bored after 2 minutes and would have switched off. Dalmatians are very smart despite what people who have never had one will tell you. Dalmatians love flyball and agility and are very good and both with the right handler and don't let anyone tell you otherwise. Keep all training fun, don't be sharp with your pup as all they want to do is please you and to be loved. Be firm but gentle. If you watch any dog training television you will see "pack leader" being taught to the owners / handlers: you need ground rules from day one in that you are the pack leader, not your cute little puppy who will try to rule you within seconds of getting in your car to get to his / her new home! Pack leader simply means, as with a child, they do what you say when you say it not when they fancy doing it - bless them. Training and socialisation are very important for all dogs, not just Dalmatians. Ask neighbours for references for a good training class as there many excellent classes around; most areas of the UK have at least one Canine Society who can help. Training classes not only help you train your pup but allow your pup to socialise with other dogs, however there are things that you can do at home in between classes such as commands: Which commands you use it up to you but remember the basics: Don’t us your pups name before a command for example “Fred down” as they will hear the word “Fred” and totally ignore the word “down”. If you are using the word “down” decide what you mean by “down” and keep to that meaning, for example do you mean “get of the furniture”, “don’t jump up on me” or do you mean “lie on the floor”. As with humans you cannot have one word for three totally different reasons. We were told before we got Bailey never teach a show Dalmatian the word “sit” as you want them to “stand” in the show ring, rubbish, “sit” as “stand” is just a command, the only difference is you have your palm facing down for “sit” and facing upwards for “stand”. Don’t use the word “please” with a command, as with using your pup’s name they will hear the word “please” and ignore the rest of the command. Uses treats, lots of treats, as Dalmatians are very intelligent and see no reason for doing something for nothing, they consider a treat as fair payment for doing something for you. If you pup has not done what you want do not give the treat, the treat must be a reward for doing things correctly, give the treat immediately don’t tease as your pup will not do what you want as they will think “why bother”. All puppies "mouth" which is a type of putting their mouth around your arm or hand. If it is only mouthing don't worry as they will grow out of it, it is something their mothers do to them to keep them in control. However if they start nipping or biting this needs to be stopped! Do not hit your puppy with a newspaper on the nose as this is cruel and will simply make your pup scared of you and as he / she grows aggresive! Use the word "No!" and if that does not work a spray bottle with water, which will work very quickly, but do not use the spray to tease as it defeats the object of the training. Lastly on basics Do Not allow anyone to crawl around the floor with your puppy, teasing them, play rough-and-tumble as that cute little pup is going to grow, and will remember! They will want to play this "great puppy game" for the rest of their lives with the "best friend" who played with them as a pup, and a 30kg Dalmatian wanting to play is not as much fun as that cute little puppy. Why have I added the Dangerous Dog Act 1991 to my site? Easy, there are loads of people out there who do not know it, or worse think it is OK to ignore it! The basics of the act is that it is against the law to own a banned breed of dog or a dog that is deemed to be a threat to another person, so if your Dalmatian is prone to be a little bad tempered and / or snappy at others it can be taken away by the police and can be destroyed! Please note it does not have to bite anyone to be deemed a dangerous dog, as long as it is thought to be a threat it can be removed by the police! Be very aware if buying a puppy ensure you get to meet & play with the mother (dam), & if possible father (sire). Ensure both parents are from loving homes, are not nervous (a clear sign that they can be snappy and dangerous if not watched) & of good nature, as bad tempered parents tend to produce bad tempered pups. You can use the British Dalmatian Club Shows section for more information about both parents, if either have been shown - Dalmatians who are shown have to be of good nature & are very much pampered pets first and show dogs second. Dangerous Dogs Act 19911991 CHAPTER 65  | |
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