Breeding:
You will read on some non-British sites that the bitch must be over 12 months of age and the stud over 9 months before they are allowed to breed, sorry but in the UK the rules from the Kennel Club and the Dalmatian Clubs are quite clear in that the bitch must be at least 2 years old, but no older than 8 years old, and the stud a year old, though as with all males for as long as he is healthy and ensuring he is not over worked there is no top age. The rules are also clear in that a bitch must not have more than one litter per year.
Before breeding check your registration details to ensure there are no endorsements on them regarding breeding, for example a patched Dalmatian or a partially hearing Dalmatian could have a restriction that breeding is not allowed and that they must be neutered by their second Birthday, or in the case of a show potential Dalmatian it cannot be breed without the original breeders permission. Speak to your breeder as you do not want to breed out your bitches good traits. Remember to check the stud is KC registered and ask to see a copy of his registration as you will need to confirm his details before you register any pups.
Mating can take anything from five minutes to two hours to complete, it all depends on the day and the timing cannot be pre-empted. You may need to assist with the original introductions, with the owner of the stud dog as the bitch might be snappy with a male she has not met previously – typical female in that she would prefer to have dinner and flowers first, and typical male: Why?.
Gestation lasts anything from 59 to 63 days, so ensure you have written down the date of that fateful mating. During gestation the bitch should be kept free from stress, not over worked, encouraged to rest and fed a good healthy diet – be aware she might be eating for anything from six to eighteen!
Obviously as with humans the signs that you’re Dalmatian is pregnant is obvious with an increasing waistline and boobs filling with milk, though you might notice any change for about five to six weeks. Other changes will be her wanting to exercise less and pee more; um I wonder where I have heard that before? Plus signs can include nausea and nesting where anything you leave around clothing wise gets “nicked” by your Dal for her bed. As the pregnancy progress your Dal will eat little but more often, and will need to be fed three or four times a day nearer her birth date but do ensure she has plenty to drink to avoid dehydration.
As you have plenty of time to prepare for the pups make a whelping box and encourage your bitch to rest there, so she is aware that come whelping time she has her own quiet place. You can buy whelping boxes for a small fortune or you can make one for about £10.
Whelping should go with ease, though do have your vet’s number in your mobile just in case:
Labour starts with the cervix dilating, this as with humans can take many hours with your Dal shivering, panting, being restless, moody, vomiting and refusing to eat or drink, all is normal. You might even find that she keeps going upstairs to your bed, please stop this and encourage her to go to the whelping box as you do not want puppies being born on your bed, unless you do not mind the mess and having to sleep on the sofa for the next week?
A contraction pushes a water sack with puppy in it though the birthing canal, the water sack lubricates the birthing canal making the birth easier for your bitch, as the pushing progresses a head will appear – the pup at this point is still in the water sack. You can help from this point or you can leave Mother Nature to take its own time, but be warned to have a box of tissues near you as you will be crying your heart out with the joy of being a “new mum”. Each pup should be born in about thirty minutes, some quicker. If a pup is taking more than thirty minutes it might need your help, if in doubt telephone the vet immediately! During “hard labour” your Dal might try to run away from the pain, pant, growl, cry or howl, again all normal.
After each birth the placenta should come away though occasionally more than one pup, as with human twins and triplets, can share a placenta.
Dalmatian puppies are born with their spots on their skin, which you can see as they are born but as they are washed and dried by their real mum they spots will be hidden under a pile of white fluff, not being seen again until your new puppies are about two to three weeks old. The exception to this is patched Dalmatians as the patch, often on ears or faces, is very clear from day one and can only be sold on as a pet or for obedience Competitions. While patched Dals are not banned in show dogs in the UK they do not do well and will often not get placed.
Be warned puppies claws are very sharp and will need trimming soon after their birth.
Dew claws are often removed to safe on them snagging on something as the Dal grows, it is your choice if you want them removed or not, Bailey has hers and we have never had a problem with them. If you do want them removed please get a vet to do it before they are a week old, at which time they will need less sedation and will have less of a reaction about having it done.
At about two and a half to three weeks the pups can start to be weaned on gruel, which can be very messy but does give mum a small break from constant feeding.
Complications:
Before the pups are born your Dals temperature will drop by a couple of degrees, if the pups are not born within twenty four hours of this happening telephone the vet as complications could be occurring and an infection setting in.
If gestation lasts more than 72 days a C Section may be required and vets help is definitely required.
If your Dal spends more than an hour delivering a pup or there is more than four hours between pups there could be one stuck which will need either your help or the vets help.
If your Dal seems to be in excessive pain again your Dal could need a vets help.
Lastly there will be natural bleeding during the birth but if you’re Dal bleeds excessively call the vet immediately!
Canine Gestation Calendar
Weeks zero to one:
· Breeding takes place. Within a few days, the sperm reaches the eggs and fertilization occurs
Week two:
· The fertilized eggs make their way to the uterus for implantation.
· You may notice behavioral changes in your dog. She may become moody or more affectionate.
Week three:
· Implantation has taken place and the embryos begin to develop.
· Your dog may begin to display mood swings, appetite changes and breast tissue development.
Week four:
- Fetuses can be felt in the uterine horns around day 28, and can also be seen by ultrasound.
The spinal cords are developing, and the fetuses are beginning to grow facial features. - Your bitch's uterus will shortly fill with fluids to protect the fetuses. After this, it will be weeks until the puppies can be felt again.
- Your dog's appetite will likely increase, so offer her more of her food.
Week five:
- The fetuses develop their sex organs and begin to look like actual puppies. The leg buds lengthen and develop toes.
- Your dog's belly will begin to look noticeably swollen as the pups take up more space.
- With less room for full meals, it's time to begin serving smaller meals more frequently.
Week six:
· Pups continue to grow and pigmentation develops. The eyes now have lids and remain sealed until approximately ten days after birth.
Week seven:
- Puppies are well-developed, and now begin attaining size in preparation for birth.
- You may be able to see/feel the puppies' movements in your bitch's abdomen.
- Her breasts are well developed and probably contain a bit of colostrum or "first milk".
- Your dog is noticeably tired and may begin search for a place to whelp. Time to set up a whelping box.
Week eight:
- The pups have fur and are now crowded in the uterus. You may notice a lot of activity as they get into position for the coming birth.
- Your bitch may begin digging the bedding in the whelping box. This is natural "nesting" behavior.
· Allow your bitch to feed freely as she is able.
Weeks eight to nine:
- The pups are ready for birth, and may be quite still as they rest in preparation for the marathon to come.
- Your dog may appear uncomfortable and restless or anxious.
· Time to begin taking rectal temperature readings 12 hours apart. Normal temperature is 100 to 101 F; a drop down near 97 F held for two consecutive readings indicates labor will begin within 24 hours.
(table taken from http://dogs.lovetoknow.com/wiki/Canine_Gestation)
