Only breeders displaying this marker are members of the Assured Breeder Scheme (aka Accredited Breeders)

Breeding:
You will read on some non-British sites that the bitch must be over 12 months of age and the stud over 9 months before they are allowed to breed, sorry but in the UK the rules from the Kennel Club and the Dalmatian Clubs are quite clear in that the bitch must be at least 2 years old, but no older than 8 years old, and the stud a year old, though as with all males for as long as he is healthy and ensuring he is not over worked there is no top age. The rules are also clear in that a bitch must not have more than one litter per year, and no more than four litters in her life time.
Before breeding check your registration details to ensure there are no endorsements on them regarding breeding, for example a patched Dalmatian or a partially hearing Dalmatian could have a restriction that breeding is not allowed and that they must be neutered by their second Birthday, or in the case of a show potential Dalmatian it cannot be breed without the original breeders permission. Speak to your breeder as you do not want to breed out your bitches good traits. Remember to check the stud is KC registered and BAER (hearing) tested, and ask to see a copy of his registration as you will need to confirm his details before you register any pups. Be warned if you buy a patched Dalmatian pup you cannot use it for breeding Kennel Club registered puppies, the breed clubs are very clear on this, and the Kennel Club will not register the pups from a patched parent. Be very aware of if you have a patched dog and someone offers you their bitch for a litter so that you can have one: how many litters have they had, and how often? the rules are clear that there has to be at least a year between each litter a bitch has, and that neither parent are patched, the bitch has to be at least two and under eight, the dog at least a year old. If any of these rules are being broken I would seriously suggest that the breeder is a puppy farmer! you do not have to live in the country to be a puppy farmer, you can do this just as easily from a terrace house, which gives the idea that the breeder is anything but.
Mating can take anything from five minutes to two hours to complete, it all depends on the day and the timing cannot be pre-empted. You may need to assist with the original introductions, with the owner of the stud dog as the bitch might be snappy with a male she has not met previously – typical female in that she would prefer to have dinner and flowers first, and typical male: Why?.
Gestation lasts anything from 59 to 63 days, so ensure you have written down the date of that fateful mating. During gestation the bitch should be kept free from stress, not over worked, encouraged to rest and fed a good healthy diet – be aware she might be eating for anything from six to eighteen!
Obviously as with humans the signs that you’re Dalmatian is pregnant is obvious with an increasing waistline and boobs filling with milk, though you might notice any change for about five to six weeks. Other changes will be her wanting to exercise less and pee more; um I wonder where I have heard that before? Plus signs can include nausea and nesting where anything you leave around clothing wise gets “nicked” by your Dal for her bed. As the pregnancy progress your Dal will eat little but more often, and will need to be fed three or four times a day nearer her birth date but do ensure she has plenty to drink to avoid dehydration.
As you have plenty of time to prepare for the pups make a whelping box and encourage your bitch to rest there, so she is aware that come whelping time she has her own quiet place. You can buy whelping boxes for a small fortune or you can make one for about £50.
Whelping should go with ease, though do have your vet’s number in your mobile just in case:
Labour starts with the cervix dilating, this as with humans can take many hours with your Dal shivering, panting, being restless, moody, vomiting and refusing to eat or drink, all is normal. You might even find that she keeps going upstairs to your bed, please stop this and encourage her to go to the whelping box as you do not want puppies being born on your bed, unless you do not mind the mess and having to sleep on the sofa for the next week?
A contraction pushes a water sack with puppy in it though the birthing canal, the water sack lubricates the birthing canal making the birth easier for your bitch, as the pushing progresses a head will appear – the pup at this point is still in the water sack. You can help from this point or you can leave Mother Nature to take its own time, but be warned to have a box of tissues near you as you will be crying your heart out with the joy of being a “new mum”. Each pup should be born in about thirty minutes, some quicker. If a pup is taking more than thirty minutes it might need your help, if in doubt telephone the vet immediately! During “hard labour” your Dal might try to run away from the pain, pant, growl, cry or howl, again all normal.
After each birth the placenta should come away though occasionally more than one pup, as with human twins and triplets, can share a placenta.
Dalmatian puppies are born with their spots on their skin, which you can see as they are born but as they are washed and dried by their real mum they spots will be hidden under a pile of white fluff, not being seen again until your new puppies are about two to three weeks old. The exception to this is patched Dalmatians as the patch, often on ears or faces, is very clear from day one and can only be sold on as a pet or for obedience Competitions. While patched Dals are not banned in show dogs in the UK they do not do well and will often not get placed.
Be warned puppies claws are very sharp and will need trimming soon after their birth.
Dew claws are often removed to safe on them snagging on something as the Dal grows, it is your choice if you want them removed or not, Bailey has hers and we have never had a problem with them. If you do want them removed please get a vet to do it before they are a week old, at which time they will need less sedation and will have less of a reaction about having it done.
At about two and a half to three weeks the pups can start to be weaned on gruel, which can be very messy but does give mum a small break from constant feeding.

Bailey at 5, then 6, then 7, then 8 weeks pregnant - the last pic is of her pups at a few hours old
Please note the pups were only in the basket as Bailey whelped the next as she was a tad careless & would stand & sit on them!
Complications:
Before the pups are born your Dals temperature will drop by a couple of degrees, if the pups are not born within twenty four hours of this happening telephone the vet as complications could be occurring and an infection setting in.
If gestation lasts more than 72 days a C Section may be required, and vets help is definitely required.
If your Dal spends more than an hour delivering a pup or there is more than four hours between pups there could be one stuck which will need either your help or the vets help.
If your Dal seems to be in excessive pain again your Dal could need a vets help.
Lastly there will be natural bleeding during the birth but if you’re Dal bleeds excessively call the vet immediately

This is Bailey's five week scan, and if you look carefully at the pup bottom right you can make out the head and legs
Canine Gestation Calendar
Weeks zero to one:
Ø Breeding takes place. Within a few days, the sperm reaches the eggs and fertilization occurs
Week two:
Ø The fertilized eggs make their way to the uterus for implantation.
Ø You may notice behavioural changes in your dog. She may become moody or more affectionate: Be warned she may be snappy towards other dogs though more affectionate to you.
Ø She will be drinking and peeing more so ensure she goes for an extra wee before bed otherwise you will find a wet carpet / rug in the morning.
Week three:
Ø Implantation has taken place and the embryos begin to develop
Ø Your dog may begin to display mood swings, appetite changes and breast tissue development: Basically she will either be off her food or more likely eat for England.
Week four:
Ø Foetuses can be felt in the uterine horns around day 28, and can also be seen by ultrasound.
Ø The spinal cords are developing, and the foetuses are beginning to grow facial features.
Ø Your bitch's uterus will shortly fill with fluids to protect the foetuses. After this, it will be weeks until the puppies can be felt again.
Ø Your dog's appetite will likely increase, so offer her more of her food.
Ø This is the time you can pay £30 plus for a scan but be warned you will only get a "yes" "no" not how many pups for a whelping guide.
Week five:
Ø The foetuses develop their sex organs and begin to look like actual puppies. The leg buds lengthen and develop toes.
Ø Your dog's belly will begin to look noticeably swollen as the pups take up more space.
Ø With less room for full meals, it's time to begin serving smaller meals more frequently.
Ø You might find that your Dalmatian has gone of long walks and prefers short waddles, do try to encourage her to walk further than she wants so that she stays fit for whelping.
Ø You will start to notice that it takes several attempts to roll on her back due to gravity and a fatter belly.
Ø The hair on her belly will start to get thinner in order she can breast feed the pups.
Ø Because of the less space in her abdomen you will need an extra night walk so she can empty her bowels as she may not be able to hold things until morning, failing that have loads of paper towels, plastic bags and carpet cleaner to clean the carpets / rugs in the morning!
Week six:
Ø Pups continue to grow and pigmentation develops. The eyes now have lids and remain sealed until approximately ten days after birth.
Ø This is the time to change your Dalmatians food for several small meals of puppy food per day, I also feed lambs liver for extra iron, and give extra water with milk added.
Ø Try as you might you will not be able to feel the pups move, though you will feel air moving around her stomach.
Puppy food has the extra calcium and minerals your Dalmatian needs for feeding her pups, and to ward of possible calcium linked illnesses post whelping which can be life threatening.
Week seven:
Ø Puppies are well-developed, and now begin attaining size in preparation for birth.
Ø You may be able to see/feel the puppies' movements in your bitch's abdomen.
Ø Her breasts are well developed and probably contain a bit of colostrums or "first milk".
Ø Your dog is noticeably tired and may begin search for a place to whelp.
Ø Time to set up a whelping box.
Ø Keep other dogs away from her boobs as they will try to get an “extra feed”.
Week eight:
Ø The pups have fur and are now crowded in the uterus. You may notice a lot of activity as they get into position for the coming birth.
Ø Your bitch may begin digging the bedding in the whelping box: This is natural "nesting" behaviour.
Ø Allow your bitch to feed freely when she is able, if need be hand feed her to encourage her to eat.
Weeks eight to nine:
Ø The pups are ready for birth, and may be quite still as they rest in preparation for the marathon to come.
Ø Your dog may appear uncomfortable and restless or anxious.
Ø Time to begin taking rectal temperature readings 12 hours apart. Normal temperature is 100 to 101 F; a drop down near 97 F held for two consecutive readings indicates labour will begin within 24 hours.
Ø Do Not allow your Dalmatian out on her own, espesh at night, as she might decide to give birth somewhere odd such as under the shed or in the neighbours garden behind their bins and you have to play "hunt the puppies".
Ø From experience, sad experience, do not leave her on her own for the first 36 hours. Have someone keeping an eye on her at all times as she may surprise you with extra pups, and you do not want to lose them by her being to tired to look after them, or worse still you not notice that she is laying on them as you think there are 6 pups, and can count 6, when in fact there were 8 and two have met with a very sad ending all too soon in their short lives. We had a pup "appear" 40 hours after the first, sadly it was too late and was a still born having passed away long before shecould be born.
Cost of Breeding
The below list is just a guide to how much breeding costs, obviously you can make a whelping box for about £100 or use a carboard one for about £60, and money can be saved by shopping around, However do not save on puppy food, or puppy packs as this is the start of a good life for your pups, which as a breeder you are responsable for.
KC Affix: £70 + annual fee to KC
KC Accredited Breeder Scheme: £15 + annual fee to KC
Pre-whelping vet check: £30
Pre-whelping worming £30
Stud Fees: £100 + £50-£100 per live pup born
Whelping scan: £30
Whelping box: £300
Whelping kit: £40
Heat mat: £30
Red heat Lamp: £20
Scales: £10
Vet bed(s) £50
Whelping box mattress: £30
Puppy food for mum: £70
Emergency caesarean: £600 9am -5pm Monday - Friday
Emergency caesarean: £1200 out of hours / weekends
Post-whelping vet check: £30
Puppy check: £60
Dew claws removed: £5 per pup
KC litter registration: £13 to £31 per pup (up to £31 if you include 3 or 5 generation history for each pup)
KC litter suppliment: £6
KC litter transfer: £5 per pup
KC litter sales service: £20
Joint Club Litter Serives: £25
BAER (hearing) tests: £30 per pup (can be up to £120 depending on which BAER testing centre you use so shop around)
Micro-chipping: £20 per pup
Puppy food: £100
Additional heating costs £100 (this is the extra heating to keep the puppy room warm)
Fuel costs: £100 plus (cost of vet visits, pre and post whelping check ups, BAER testing travel etc)
Vitamin drops: £5 (only to be used if recommended by your vet)
Puppy packs: £20 per pup
Advertising pups: local papers, internet etc
Sadly a cost that cannot be included is the heart break of losing pups, for example over 48 hours we lost five pups. The remaining seven pups cost £173 to register with the KC.